Elizabeth City, NC

We've made it around Maw Point (the nasty stretch of the Neuse River that turned us back last week), but the fun was just beginning at that point. In this part of NC, the Rivers are 4 miles wide and the Creeks are a mile wide. All the waters get wicked with certain winds and some (Albemarle Sound) get wicked with any wind. Pemlico River, Pungo River, and Alligator River were all rough. Trying to avoid following seas and beam seas, we traversed them all. A rather desolate stretch, not much to see or photograph, especially when the shore is so far away. We spent one night at Alligator River Marina, where the highlight is this Hattaras Lighthouse replica. It rained heavy that night, the first good rain we've experienced since February. With north winds predicted, we knew we'd be heading right into the waves, best point of sail for Shingebiss, so we were off early the next morning to cross the dreaded 16 mile Albemarle Sound.

We had quite a ride and took spray all the way up to the flybridge. I took a video, thinking it could tell the story better than the photographs, but most of the time, just hung on with both hands. Going downstairs to the head was quite an adventure. Even the dashboard captain toppled in Albemarle. Lucy, however, terrified as she was, held down her breakfast, she must be getting her sea legs. We were quite proud of what the humble Shingebiss has handled thus far, relieved to land in Elizabeth City, and glad to have the big waters of NC behind us. Elizabeth City, the Harbor of Hospitality, has 14 free slips available to cruisers, right in the downtown area. We were met at the dock by the town ambassadors who help you tie up and fill you in on all their City has to offer. There is no electricity at the docks, but water is available to fill your tanks, and the price is right !!

The Rose Buddy program was started by Fred Fearing and his friend Joe, who decided in 1983 to host a gathering for the boaters at the town dock. Joe brought roses from his garden, Fred provided the refreshments and the Rose Buddy program was born. Joe died in 1986 and his rose gardens were transplanted to the park next to the docks. The Rose Buddy Program flourished under Fred's direction and became widely known up and down the ICW. Fred remained active into his 90's and when he died in 2002, the monument below was dedicated to his honor. Quite a guy !!! Whenever 5 or more boats are in the harbor, the Rose Buddies host a wine and cheese party ... looks like there will be one tonight. Tomorrow is the Potato Festival in Elizabeth City, right here on the water front of course, so we'll stay for that and head for the Dismal Swamp Canal on Sunday ... more about the Swamp to follow.

If you are following along with the adventures of Eschaton, the Gibson, they arrived today, and had a more pleasant journey across Albemarle than we did. While Shingebiss is more comfortable going directly into the waves, Eschaton prefers the waves to follow her, so they have been a day behind us, so we were glad to see them when they pulled in this morning.

Here is the video of the Albemarle Crossing, but again, doesn't match how it feels to be there.