January in DMop

It was great fun to go "home for the holidays" as we did not make that journey on our first Loop.  We had a busy social calendar and it was wonderful to see everyone after being gone for the fall.  Once the festivities were over, however, it was time for some warmer weather, so we packed up the van and Lucy and headed back to Demopolis.  It's about 18 hours by car (as opposed to two months by boat) with one overnight stop.  We made it to St. Louis in time to catch part of the sunset from the top of the arch.  Here's the view to the west.  The domed building in the center is old city hall, which is now open as a museum. 

It was only 23 degrees, after dark, and the dock water supply was temporarily shut off when we arrived at the boat the next day.   Brrrr, but just like in MN, it's been an abnormally warm winter here, and it's only dropped into the 20's a couple of nights since.  A few days after we arrived it hit 70 degrees, so we launched the dinghy for a 12 mile trip up the Black Warrior River.  This river flows into the TomBigbee just above Demopolis and we wanted to see what it looked like.  A little gray on the banks this time of year, but it felt good to be out on the water in January !!!

 The river is navigable for 100 miles to Tuscaloosa (Roll Tide) and beyond.  We spent most of our first couple of weeks on boat upkeep (it's always something).  We began to think it would be a rather lonely time here, most of the Loopers are in Florida by now, but then our social life was reborn.  Loopers Kathy and Bob (aka Trip Time) who we cruised with last fall, and Gold Loopers Hal and Cheryl (aka Mas Bueno) who we knew from our Loop arrived within days of each other.  Along with Michelle and John (aka High C's), who are here for a while like us, we have a formed great friendships and had lots of fun.  Cheryl made us Arroz con Pollo (that's chicken with rice) and we dined in the fabulous laundry room. 

A few nights later it was Steve's Jambalaya followed by a delicious pot luck.  We are also finding a few good local restaurants.  Having a car makes a total difference and everything in DMop is within a 3 mile drive.  There's two antebellum (that means before the civil war) mansions in town and we've toured them both.  This is the dining room in Gaineswood. 

Gaineswood was built in stages as the owner's family grew and his cotton plantation prospered.  It sits on several acres and is an impressive site.  

Shingebiss is docked in the last slip on the pier.  We get the morning sun in the salon and frequently see a good sunset. 

We have been getting a huge downpour about once a week, but for the most part the days have been sunny and in the high 60's ... much warmer than we expected.  Lucy is enjoying being outside all day.  She has discovered how to get under the dock decking and travels through the labyrinth on top of the floats.  Here she is preparing to exit her domain by jumping to our swim platform. 

There's a great place to walk just adjacent to our docks, so we often start our day with a brisk walk.  Here's Hal (Mas Buenos) and Steve (Trip Time). 

We thought Trip Time and Mas Bueno would be gone to the Gulf by now, but the recent heavy rains have brought the river up, cresting today so travel is not recommended.  Here's Fred, the ever helpful and friendly marina owner.  He's drawing a diagram of the locks and explaining to the captains why they should wait until the water goes down a bit before they travel.  

As the sun goes down, we gather on the dock, trade cruising tales and all agree:  Life is Good !!!

TennTom Waterway

Our trip back down the Tennesse and TennTom Waterway was, as cruisers like to say "uneventful".  The weather continued to be warm and sunny most days.  This bridge over the Tennessee River is part of the Natchez Trace Parkway, a 444 mile north-south scenic drive.  Indians and early settlers floated supplies down the river systems and then walked the trace back to their homes upstream.  The Trace Parkway follows the path with campgrounds and history stops along the way. 

Just before the junction with the TennTom Waterway is Waterfall Cove, a tiny anchorage we wanted to visit.  There is only room for a couple of boats, but we were traveling alone and found it open.  One of the neatest anchorages we've ever stayed in.  We tossed out a stern anchor so we could keep the stern of the boat facing the waterfall.

This was our view out into Pickwick Lake. 

We talked to some local folks in a pontoon boat who said the anchorage is filled with boats every summer weekend.  Evidence emerged the next morning when I pulled the anchor and this plastic chair came up.  We took it aboard and tossed it at the next marina.

 On the TennTom Waterway, we had a chance to visit with some Minnesota folks.  First, we made a stop to pick up Julie and Steve in Aberdeen where they will be building their winter home soon.  Unfortunately, it was one of our coolest days on the water, but it was great to see them again and get caught up on news.  At the Columbus Marina, we met Trisha and Charlie on their spacious liveaboard Skipperliner that they had recently brought down the rivers to move to Columbus.  We all had a great dinner out and Trisha and Charlie hosted a social hour the following night. 

Our journey brought us past the white cliffs of Epes... 

... and this cute little towboat that was heading upstream at about 10 mph. 

The Tenn Tom has some crazy switchbacks on it, where you go 20 miles to get about 3 miles as the crow flies and lots of backwaters.  This stretch of river looks like a Rorschach ink blot test on the navigation program. 

A couple of days ago, we landed at Demopolis Yacht Basin.  This is the only marina between Columbus, MS and Mobile and has long been a looper stop.  When we were here in 2009, a new basin was being excavated and is now open for business.  With brand new docks and clubhouse just steps away, great WiFi and cable TV we think it's a great place to park Shingebiss for a while, so that's what we're gonna do.  It's out of the hurricane belt, in fresh water, and affordable.  We recently learned that friends (and loyal blog followers) Jeff and Kathy are driving their van from their vacation home in Pensacola Beach to Minnesota and they have graciously offered to pick us (and Lucy) up and let us ride with them.  Our plans are to return after the holidays in our own vehicle and "ride out" the winter months here in Demopolis.  We know it's not as warm as south Florida, but what the heck, we're from MN and it's gotta be warmer than there.  Shingebiss will be "summer stored" here, either on the hard or in a covered slip.  Next fall, we will resume our cruising journey. 

Chattanooga

We were looking forward to taking the 250 mile side trip up the Tennesse River to Chattanooga, TN because we had heard so many great reviews of the scenery and the city.  As we progressed upriver, the hills got higher and we entered what is called the "Grand Canyon of the Tennessee".  While this is a bit of an exaggeration, we agreed that this was among the most spectacular scenery we had ever seen from the deck of our boat.  The leaves were at the peak of their fall colors and the sun was shining.  It was a great cruise. 

The Chattanooga waterfront has recently been renovated including new transient docks.  Plenty of space so we pulled in with Steve and Kathy on Trip Time, their beautiful 44' Marine Trader sedan.  We immediately set out on foot to explore the downtown area, starting with a walk across the newly renovated pedestrian bridge from which we took this picture.

The Delta Queen, parked right across the river from us, is currently functioning as an inn, but we heard there are plans to recommission her to again sail the inland rivers. 

The next day we set out on a 2 mile walking tour completing it at the Chattanooga Choo Choo Hotel.  Pretty touristy, but also pretty nifty.  For a price, you can stay in one of the old train cars. 

Later that day we drove with Kathy and Steve in their rented car up to Rock City, high atop Lookout Mountain.  Again, very touristy, but this time of year, not crowded at all.  Hard to describe this place, but it was started a while back by a wealthy couple who owned the land, planted the gardens, and built miles of twisty little rock paths among the natural stone formations.  We didn't know what to expect, so started down the path.   

The paths are all paved in stone and edged with thousands of hand stacked stones.  The amount of work is incredible and something new is around each corner.   

This is called "Fat Mans Squeeze" and we had to turn sideways to get between the boulders.  Too bad the pictures turn sideways also when I upload them to the blog. 



The big overlook is called "Lover's Leap" named after .... yep, you guessed it an Indian maiden and her lover who threw themselves over when their warring tribes prohibited their union.   The view is awesome.  

  We think the waterfall you see is man made, but it still looks pretty cool. 

The next part of Rock City is a little "different".  You enter an underground room filled with black light lit dioramas of every nursery rhyme we've ever heard.  Very kitschy, but we totally enjoyed it and took pictures of each one.  Here's a favorite. 

The next day we went to the Tennessee Aquarium.  I'm no aquarium expert, but this is truly one of the best.  Fish from all over the world and more.   Here's just a sample. 

Blue African Parrots, world's largest

Huge crab

jellie fish, dozens of tanks of different varietys, mesmerizing

sand shark 4 story high tank which you pass on each level as you descend through the exhibits

100 year old snapping turtle getting amorous with 30 y/o female ... gotta love it

adorable penquins

American Alligator

Cool Amazon River fish

There's much more to see in Chattanooga, but it was time to head back downstream.  Here's a picture of the Aquarium and the fountain adjacent to the docks taken as we departed. 

It was another bright sunny day as we passed back through the canyon. 

Our trip up the Tennessee River has exceeded our expectations.  It's a beautiful river with inexpensive friendly marinas and pretty anchorages ... and this huge cliff known as Painted Bluff.  

We plan to be at the Demopolis Yacht Basin in about a week.  

AGLCA Rondevouz

We woke to fog on the last day of our run to Joe Wheeler State Park (Rogersville, Alabama) for the AGLCA Rondevouz and Reunion.  The harbor was filled with bass boats waiting for the fog to lift so they could get out and begin the competition. 

By 9 am, the fog cleared and once the small boats raced out, eight cruising boats in the harbor headed out towards the Wilson Lock.  With a 93' lift, the Wilson was the highest single lift lock in the world when it was built in the 1950's.  Currently, it ranks 6th after five other locks in the Pacific Northwest.  It's quite impressive. 

The doors are massive, it's fun just to watch them close.  Okay, you'll have to turn your computer on the side to see them ... seems I used to put "portrait" oriented pics in the blog, but this one won't turn the right way. 

We came into beautiful Joe Wheeler State Park with five other boats.  AGLCA volunteers on the docks were ready to direct us all in, grab our lines, and welcome us to the event.  Very efficient.  A total of 57 looper boats were at the event.  The lodge was also filled with folks who attended by land.  Three days of seminars, lunches and dinners are included with registration.  The event is well sponsored by marinas along the loop who provide breakfasts, wine receptions, and goodie bags.  Name tags identify each of us by name, boat name and home port, along with a ribbon to signify our "loop status".  Gold for those who have completed the loop, white for those currently looping, and blue for those in the planning stages.  Just walking the docks was an event, checking out all the boats and meeting fun and amazing people who were as crazy about looping as we are.  On the Looper Crawls, boats were opened up for visiting and we toured some beauties including a spacious 44' Endeavor Catamaran, a crazy fancy 50' Searay, and a couple of expertly preserved older trawlers.  Our favorite, however, had to be Sea Biscuit, a 38' 1962 steel Chris Craft Roamer.  Her owners had spent 10 years restoring her and she was perfect both inside and out.  We also met a couple from Australia, who had come to America and bought a boat just to do the loop and were close to completion. 

Here's the view of our dock, seen from the deck of the lodge. 

 and this is the view from our back deck.  As you can see, Joe Wheeler Park is gorgeous and the weather was fabulous. 

We had more fun than we had ever expected and were so glad that we had finally attended a Rondevouz.  Last night it was over and we left this morning .... next destination:  Chattanooga.



Tennessee River Cruising

We left Green Turtle Bay Marina with Eschaton (Jack and Nan plus their dog and 2 cats aboard) and went on a short cruise to anchor for the night.  The shoreline along this stretch is lined with beautiful cliffs, sand beaches and forest. 

There are dozens of embayments that provide quiet isolated anchorages. We turned into Sugar Bay, one of the best, where we had anchored in '09. 

It was like old times as we anchored the boats together, launched the dinghys, and headed to shore for a hike through the woods.  

After weeks of perfect weather, the next day brought cool temps and rain.  When cruising, you have to take the good with the bad, so we drove inside where we could stay warm and dry.  We came upon this homemade raft making its way along with a very small outboard motor.  You have to admire their determination.  

 

Lucy climbs up on top of the frig, under the counter whenever the engine is started.  She doesn't have quite as much spirit of adventure that she had during our first loop.  When we land at a marina or anchorage, she goes out onto the deck, looks around and seems to say "well, this isn't my yard" and then goes back inside.  She came out and joined us for a while during the rainy days. 

We stayed at a couple of new marinas and one of our old favorite marinas as we made our way south on the Tennessee.  With the nighttime temps in the low 30's we appreciated the electricity to run the heat.  The marinas on the Tennessee are so inexpensive (still $1/foot) and so friendly.  They really seem to appreciate your business and go out of their way to make boaters feel welcome.  At Clifton Marina they remembered us from 2 years ago, even though we had only stayed one night.  Clifton is the kind of place where when you go in for a burger, they make you feel like they are cooking dinner just for you.  We also have been surprised and pleased to run into several of the Loopers that we had met during our first loop who, like us, couldn't give up the cruising life and were heading south for the winter. 

After 2 days of rain, the sun came back out, and the daytime temps have improved.  After the Pickwick Lock, there are some spectacular homes on the shore. 

We met this man who lives on this unusual cruising boat.  We didn't get a tour of the inside, but can imagine how comfortable it must be.  It's a Jay Benford design, built of steel in Guatamala. 

Boaters following the Great Loop route follow the Tennessee River for about 200 miles and then turn off onto the TennTom Waterway.  This time we are following the Tennessee for another 300 miles to Chattanooga, Tennessee, with a stop at the AGLCA Rondevouz along the way.  The shoreline in this section of the river reminds me alot of the upper Mississippi, with more houses and more boats, even this late in the year. 

Lots of action in the marina we are in tonight, music in the bar, and a bass fishing contest with 150 boats participating began today.  After a month aboard, we have settled back into the cruising life and are enjoying it immensely.  We're glad to say it's as much fun as it was the first time around, perhaps not quite the excitement, but maybe a bit more relaxed so far this time.